FLAX LINEN CLUB

"TRUTH OF GIFT INSTITUTE AHMEDABAD"

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"TRUTH OF GIFT INSTITUTE AHMEDABAD"

POSTING DATE: 29^th JANUARY 2014

FLAX AND LINEN

FLAX: CROP AND CULTIVATION

FLAX: SEEDS “LINSEEDS”

FLAX: CROP IN METRIC TONS IN WORLDS

FLAX: CROP FOR TEXTILE, PAPER, FOOD AND MEDICINE

FLAX: CROP HARVESTING METHODS

FLAX: PREPARATION FOR SPINNING

FLAX LINEN AND FABRIC DESIGNING

FLAX TO LINEN

Flax is a Fibre of Textile and Paper making, good for Medicine and Food Industry too. Flax cultivation defines truly and historically for cooler regions of the World. If trying to cultivate in little hotter or in little hot humid area, then flax crop will grow, but not fullest its normal fibre length which is normally 16 to 25 inch and fibre strength will reduce very low for flax fibres yarn wet spinning, but below 10 tow dry spinning linen count can be made out of this flax fibres with less strength.

Best Flax Fibres grows in cooler place with very little moisture and humid atmosphere farmland in the world and with this type of flax fibre, one can wet spines above 70s lea linen single count with fullest strength. If one plies 4 time, then this 70s lea single linen count strength becomes more than metal fibres, that is why flax/linen yarn breaking strength is highest in comparisons to all textile fibers at presents, and it will remain till then, when new textile natural fibre discover with better qualities than flax from this spreads out bounteous earth paradise by The Almighty God, which is useful in textile or same type of purpose in appropriate industry in the world.

Flax plant grows like a singular unit cluster of many protected covers in and out to built strength for its fibres plant, which is Bast [bast kind of bass] - Bark - Stalks - stem type outer leaf fibre like Jute and Ramie and its seed are known as linseed and its oil is commonly use in medicines, fine arts, varnish, linoleum, printing ink and many other uses in our human society today.

Flax Fibre has its own natural ups and downs that gives little variation in flax yarn like thin and thick places in between smooth surface, which is natural and spacing in between with smooth surface ups and downs is at random, as like SLUB but very, verily smooth in overall its continuous length, due to this quality of flax fibre in weaving textile surface is not fully flat and that is why is not sticky to the human skin, crispy and naturally lustrous due to un even textile surface from there light reflect more.

Flax fibres has to be segregate before it’s any use as above said mention because flax fibres are vegetable fibre which grows like a singular unit cluster of many different protected cover to built strength for its fibres plant, like bast [bass], bark, stalks, stem type leaf fibres, which naturally grows in single shrub with five leaf, as like Indian elephant grass, with many thick and thin variation in plant growth. That means after segregation fineness of the flax fibres from coarser fibres with better length is very good for finest lea linen count wet spinning, this manual segregation of flax fibres for fine lea count spinning, gives better earning as like wool trade where Sheep/Lame Wool while clipping they segregate, systematically for better worsted yarn spinning because different body parts wool gives different micron, which means fineness of the fibre is higher side in micron, that gives in spinning fine worsted count [higher number of count] for light weight worsted fabric and same style is for flax, these all segregation are important and firstly is done while collecting the crop and again before taking in for actual flax yarn spinning, which helps in production efficiency and quality of textile materials.

FLAX CROP PROUCTION WORLD WIDE:

Flax crop for industry purpose grows in part of Egypt Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 175000, China Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 350000, Georgia Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 35000, North America USA Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 80000, Belgium Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 70000, Russia Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is235000, United Kingdom UK Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 75000, Ethiopia Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 70000, Kazakhstan Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 65000, Ukraine Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 52000, Argentina Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 34000, Canada Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 400000, New Zealand Flax/Linen in farming is known with different name and there Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 40000, before partition of India in along with Northern Hills was higher than present situation of Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 160000 and other part of Europe and world, which is not mention above, there Flax/Linen Linseed crop production approximately metric tons is 100000, approximately today in beginning of year JANUARY 2014.

FLAX LINEN FIBRES AND FABRIC HISTORY:

Flax Linen Fabric is not new, is oldest textile and paper industry fibre. Historically found in Dzudzuana cave dyed flax fibres of prehistoric Georgia dated 30000 years ago and ancient Egyptian times, for example in Egypt they covered around mummies linen un degummed fabric, in Korea still is used to cover human body for its last rituals, because with time or in earth does not get destroy easily and insect moths and white ants avoid eating due to gums and partly absorbed moisture from nature to maintain its gum strength, Artist use Linen canvas without degummed.

FLAX YARN OTHER USAGE HISTORICALLY:

Flax yarn was used before 1980s for football, volleyball, basketball, cricket ball, hockey ball, shoes, luggage bags, pocket purse, lady purse, taint, horseback, leather or canvas water tank, leather belts Stitching, hoses, hanging bridge and many more quality of this fibres shows and recorded historically scientifically and practically for its better strength and results, that is why flax fibre is strongest fibres in textile industry by all scientifically test presently.

FLAX IS NOW BRAND FIBRE IN THE WORLD:

Today Flax/Linen fabric is brand for human society. In India Jay shree textile linen mills unit of late shri Aditya Vikram Birlaji group of industries Rishra in West Bengal manufactures versatile materials out of flax yarn such as shirting suiting jacketing under banner of Linen Garden, canvases, shoe uppers, luggage fabric, industrial fabric, flame/fire retardant fabric, hoses etc. In other part of India Textile Industrialist are trying to make more versatile linen fabric such as Indian Sari Materials, jacketing fabric, bed linen, curtain fabric, upholstery, furnishing, tapestry, home décor, flooring etc.

Flax is the richest fibres amongst in textile fibres, due to its versatile tactile qualities as such crispy, natural lustrous for eyes and uneven natural slubby texture with full smooth textile surface, not sticky to human skin even though after sweating in summer and this is all due to after spinning this fibre remain un cylindrical and its woven textile look alike.

Flax fibre made linen textile fabric looks and feel totally different than other textiles fabric, which is natural, washable in any cloth washing detergent, physical properties and character wise very - verily human, in textile processing dyeing and printing behave like cotton ramie and jute except degumming process, In spinning and weaving is little stiffly but not difficult to use.

If designer knows as above said mention flax/linen and other textile qualities character wise, then there is no end in designing or any further development for them.

Beside above said mention flax qualities, flax and linseed content many minerals and dietary such as Vitamin C, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B6, Vitamin B9, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium and Zink. Dietary of flax, such as Fat [saturated, monounsaturated, polyunsaturated] and Protein, which makes this, is more human. Flax seeds are use in unaani and ayurveda medicines very effectively, for example eating 10 to 20 gram flax seeds twice a day which bring down blood pressure, filtration of unwanted product which develops in human body as cholesterol, works for body sugar as controlling diabetes due to natural neurotoxic cyanogens glycosides, protect breast cancers and gives positive energy etc and above said mention qualities of linen fabric, keeps body cool in summer.

FLAX HARVESTING METHODS:

There is only two ways of harvesting flax crop in cooler region in the world, one in which farmers use mechanized equipment methods and other is totally manual with target to gain maximum fibre length from the crop.

Other part of the world where farming region is not fully coolest, they apply various techniques to keep farmland wet and moistures to maintain surrounding cool so they can gain maximum fibre length but in comparisons to cooler region fibre length is shorter and strength wise little week.

Farmland for flax crop should be partly dry, sandy or gravelly and should be just above waterline of the farmland earth, which is highly suitable for flax crop.

If farmland is little higher side of earth waterline then develop small, small water ponds in surrounding of flax farmland, that will maintain waterline of the farmland, which will also gives better flax crop, this shows that flax crop requires less direct irrigation, and if farmland is nearer to river belt, that will be the best for farming flax crop but be sure about, river should have water throughout from sowing flax seeds to collecting crop.

After sowing seeds in 90 to 110 days flax plant grows fullest and flower shoots and in few days after they turn in capsules type clustered and seeds are appropriately start developing and plant begin converting from green to yellow and is fully yellow not brownish than crop is ready to pullout from earth, means uprooted to gain maximum fibre length.

To separate flax seeds, flax crop needs few days drying to process for collecting seeds. Flax seed are removed by threshing process; this can be done by machine or manually. Threshing can be done in many ways like collecting all capsules type clustered manually than thresh by machine or manually and with the help of wind, seeds gets separated and leftover of seeds capsules clustered is useful as fertilizer in farmland. Once the seeds are taken from the crop then is kept for seasoning as retting, if climatic condition of the region is suitable then in two to three weeks flax crop is retted in the farmland with dew otherwise its takes more time for retting the crop.

Retting can be done in ponds, steam or in water tank. Ponds retting are faster than other way of doing retting. Ponds retting takes place in shallow pool which warm up flax dramatically under sun and this process may take couple of days or may be few weeks but while retting farmers need to keep a eye because over retting will damage the fibres.

Steam retting is partly similar to ponds retting but not open like ponds retting process, in this process bundles of flax should submerged in steam chamber and in this process steam should supply three to four time in chamber and this system of retting is little longer than ponds retting but after retting drying time is less than ponds retting.

PREPARATION OF FLAX FOR SPINNING:

It is very tedious process to make flax to linen, firstly flax stalk should remove from its flax leaf and rest leftover part of flax leaf is ready for further process which converts flax leaf to flax fibre for further spinning preparatory initial stages for linen yarn spinning.

PROCESS OF FLAX SCUTCHING:

Firstly flax plant stalk should be separated and this process is called flax Scutching, which remove away by rotting inner stalk of retted flax plant and keep intact outer layer of flax fibres due to this retting process flax fibres is not fully free from flax coarse straw fibres, which remain with outer layer of flax leaf and while removing that said flax straw, its break at many places and its length become shorter but actual flax fibres remain unharmed with outer side.

Beating for Scutching process flax fibres after retting on wooden platform with wooden round stick or mallet and then scraped away all straw type thick fibres and this kind of process can be done by machine or manually, but this said process cannot clean loosen fully coarse fibres from fine fibres.

It is also called as breaking process, in these method retted flax bundles are kept in between the beater of the breaking machine, that has two wooden jaw type blades that mesh together but jaws knife blade is blunt and that does not harm flax fibres and this continues process loosen the grip of flax fibres to each others from its layers and separate the fibres from the gripe of straw type thick fibres. Scutching should be done very carefully.

Secondly after scutched process then group of flax leaf fibres cluster clean further with hackling process as like combing, which act like combing fibres in very, verily harder ways with enough strength to make flax fibres straight and fully free from flax straw coarser part.

Thirdly when flax fibres got Scutched and hackled then it should be combed and carded and once this processed is completed then its rove form sent to simplex machine for two to four twist through simplex spinning, than further process of spinning is normal as wet or dry flax spinning.

Once the flax yarn got spin on spindle machine then it should be kept in steam chamber with spinning spindles for heat setting to avoid loop formation, then spun spindles send for final cone making and flax yarn is ready for weaving and designing.

All copy rights are reserved by Gandhi Institute of Fashion and Textile (GIFT GANDHI NGOs), Ahmedabad. By Khalid Ameer Rafique, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India.

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